With 4 accompanying patterns.

For many people this term is associated with beginners, thick thread and heavy old linen, which no longer seem to fit our contemporary needs. I would like my book to show that things do not have to be like that. I have designed a few distinctive patterns, taking care that the sections can also be used. Sufficient prickings for small practice pieces are readily available elsewhere.

I don't want to set out the ABC of lace here, but a few notes are necessary - beginning with thread. You can be enlarge or reduce every pricking.

The next thing to consider is that the lace must eventually be washed. The thread and fabric will shrink by differing amounts. It is therefore sensible to wash both before making the lace. If you do not wish to do this, choose a rather finer thread size.

The question is frequently asked: "Where do I begin?" It is essential to consider where and how you will finish the lace when you start, since the start determines the end of the lace. Look for a place that offers many completed sections, such as a block or band of cloth stitch. I have not marked the start on every pricking. Often there are several possibilities. You can also substitute cloth stitch for half stitch or vice versa as you wish. In the coloured technical drawings the "hole stitch" areas are for instance in half stitch, shown in green, the whole stitch and twist is shown in red. You can, of course, also work in Dieppe ground, i.e. twist the pairs twice before the pin, work the pin in half stitch and twist the pairs twice more after the pin. This looks very good, as the threads do not close tightly around the pin.